In addition to the debate on “The Morality of Capitalism,” which was very well attended (I was told over 200, but that seemed high to me) and great fun, we had some good meetings in Sao Paulo and then headed off yesterday to Rio. I met some of the board members of the Instituto Millenium for dinner, where I spoke on “Why Liberals Should Be Radicals.” More media meetings today and then a talk this evening, along with my colleague Diogo Costa, on “The Morality of Capitalism.” (Here is my interview with Zero Hora; more to follow.)
I learned a lot at the conference in Schwarzenberg, Austria (held in the beautiful Hotel Hirschen) about the contrasts, commonalities, and disputes between “conservative” and “classical liberal” thinking, based on an excellent set of readings and an even better set of discussants.
I’m in beautiful (and very sunny, in contrast to snow-covered Schwarzenberg) Porto Alegre, after a 22 hour trip (Schwarzenberg-Zürich-Sao Paolo-Porto Alegre). I had meetings and dinner with many of the young Brazilian classical liberals last night and gave a luncheon talk today on “Reform and the Role of Think Tanks” to liberal businesspeople from around Brazil, along with Carlo Alberto Montaner, who gave an inspiring tour of the progress of humanity through trade. Tomorrow I’ll take part in the Forum da Liberdade to speak on “Free Trade: Threat or Opportunity.” Then a dinner talk on the benefits of free trade, followed by meetings, lectures, and debates on such topics as “Is the Free Market Moral”, “The Morality of Capitalism,” and “Why Liberals Should Be Radicals” in Sao Paolo and Rio de Janeiro.
I am working with my colleagues Diogo Costa, Pedro Sette Câmara, and Magno Karl to promote our “Free Order” project in Portuguese: OrdemLivre.org.
I’ll be on the road a bit, for Zürich, Bregenz (Schwarzenberg), and then Porto Alegre, Sao Paulo, and Rio de Janeiro. The first are for a conference (and visits with some people), the Brazilian leg for the Forum da Liberdade and a number of talks, meetings, and debates on “The Morality of Capitalism.”
I’ve been swamped with work lately. Last week was a very full schedule of interviews, meetings, seminars, Cato’s board meeting, etc. Yesterday I gave a talk on “Rhetoric and Education” at an IHS conference on teaching (which took more prep time than I had anticipated), then had a day of meetings for our projects in various parts of the world. And today I’m doing an interview with Fox News on our Second Amendment challenge to the District of Columbia’s gun ban. (There are a few interesting debates on a few posts below, but I’ve not been able to take part or comment, due to my other commitments. Next week will be busy, too, as I have interviews with NPR, Swiss Television, and others, the Supreme Court case — which I hope to attend, more seminars, delegations of visiting Chinese academics, Swedish academics, and more. I hope I’ll have the chance to visit the blog posts below and kibbitz.)
I’ll be off to Las Vegas, not my favorite city (but I do know cultured people who like it; I just don’t see why) for some meetings. I hope to be able to visit Cato Institute H. L. Mencken Fellows Penn & Teller along with a big group of libertarians.
Classical Liberalism in Columbia (not Colombia) and Brazil
Among various speaking and meeting trips coming up, I will be off to Columbia University in February for the Students for Liberty Conference and to Porto Alegre, Brazil for the Liberty Forum. (Portuguese bio here.)
(I’ve got some other gigs coming up soon in Las Vegas, in Germany, etc.)
During the break this afternoon in the conference I have been attending on the thought of Francisco de Vitoria (a very important figure in the development of international law and of the theory of individual rights) I managed to run over to the University of Toronto and give a talk at the Institute for Liberal StudiesToronto Liberty Seminar. The ILS is run by my old friend and former intern/colleague Peter Jaworski and puts on really first rate programs for young people in Canada (or “Greater Canada,” which includes Michigan and other border states). Other participants I knew included two other former Cato intern/colleagues Jonathan Slemrod (who came up from Michigan) and Seyitbek Usmanov (who is studying here at the University of Toronto), and faculty members Pierre Desrochers of the University of Toronto and Jan Narveson of the University of Waterloo.
It was great fun. I strongly endorse the good work that the ILS is doing.
The debate last night at the Yale Political Union was enormous fun. The students were sharp, lively, and committed to reasoned debate, but managed to have light hearted fun at the same time. I greatly enjoyed the dinner beforehand, the debate itself (especially the back and forth among the members), and the pizza, beer, and discussion afterwards.
The cause of free trade (Resolved: Spread Democratic Liberalism through Free Trade) won the day.
I will debate the topic “Resolved: Spread Democratic Liberalism through Free Trade” at the Yale Political Union tomorrow evening. Thursday I’ll be in Toronto for a conference on the moral, juridical, and political thought of Francisco de Vitoria, a pioneer of the theory of individual rights.
I’m quite happy with my Kindle electronic book from Amazon.com. On my long trip to China, I managed to cut down on the number of books I usually carry with myself by taking it. I had the full text of Locke’s Two Treatises of Government, the writings of James Madison, The Federalist Papers, Hume’s A Treatise of Human Nature, and other works for reference (they were helpful for my lectures) and I got through a good bit of Thucydides’ History of the Peloponnesian War, some poetry, and (I’m a little ashamed to admit) a couple of trashy novels (I had a lot of the plane and train travel within China, and long flights to and from).
I was not able to access my newspaper subscriptions while in China (I get the Washington Post, the New York Times, and the Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung), but I managed to access them as soon as I touched down in the US and read them in the long line at immigration.
I’d say that the device is great for books you want to read, but not necessarily to study. It’s possible to make notes, but not as easy as writing in the margin of a corporeal book. If you want to study a book, you definitely need a corporeal book, but an electronic copy won’t hurt.
P.S. It’s not backlit, which is why the battery lasts a long time (but should be regularly recharged), so you’ll definitely want to buy a reading light with it. This one is quite good, uses LEDs, and the batteries will last for a loooonnnng time.
I just landed a while ago and turned on my Kindle, turned on the wireless access, and read this example of confusion while waiting in the very long line for immigration: “In Chinese Factories, Lost Fingers and Low Pay.” (I was recently in Hubei, Guangzhou, and Shenzhen.) See if you can count the inanities.
A few hints:
“His brother, Xu Wenjie, 18, said the two young men left their small village in impoverished Guizhou Province four months ago and traveled more than 500 miles to find work at Huanya.” Maybe they were mistaken, but people rarely repeatedly and systematically act to worsen their situations. There is no mention in the article of the conditions in Guizhou Province, which might help to provide context for the article.
“Here in the Pearl River Delta region near Hong Kong, for example, factory workers lose or break about 40,000 fingers on the job every year, according to a study published a few years ago by the Shanghai Academy of Social Sciences.” How many people work in the Pearl River Delta region near Hong Kong, and how does that compare to how many fingers were lost or broken in the past, or among similarly large groups of people elsewhere? How many were broken and how many lost? Why bother checking or making such comparisons?
“As long as life in the cities promises more money than in rural areas, they will brave the harsh conditions in factories in this and other Chinese cities. And as long as China outlaws independent unions and proves unable to enforce its own labor rules, there is little hope for change.” Outlawing labor unions is indeed a terrible thing to do. It should be changed. But as “life in the cities promises more money” and wages are rapidly rising, there is a LOT of hope for change. It’s changing as we speak.
“At the same time, rising food, energy and raw material costs in China — as well as a shortage of labor in the biggest southern manufacturing zones — are hampering factory owners’ ability to make a profit.” A shortage of labor means that employers have to raise wages (and wages include money and working conditions, both of which are improving) to attract workers. A shortage of labor is not a bad thing for laborers. (Duh.)
“’This is a problem that has been difficult to solve,’ Liu Kaiming, the director of the Institute on Contemporary Observation, which aids migrant workers in nearby Shenzhen, said of sweatshop labor. ‘China has too many factories. The workers’ bargaining position is weak and the government’s regulation is slack.’” How does a large number of factories competing for workers make their “bargaining position weak”? That’s quite a novel interpretation of labor economics.
It’s a shame to come back and find the first thing I read a case of China-bashing based on simple ignorance and laziness. China has its problems, but falling wages and worsening labor conditions are definitely not among them.
Tomorrow I leave Guangzhou for Beijing and then a direct flight to Dulles International Airport. I will miss the many wonderful people I’ve met, the sounds and the sights of the Chinese language, and the fabulous food (among other things), but I look forward to my family (Wolly and Tiggy) and my gym.
I had a very good meeting with the university president and deans this morning, despite suffering visibly from a terrible cold I got in Beijing. (The president was very understanding and very solicitous and offered to get me a doctor, but I assured him it was just a cold.) We didn’t head out to visit the surrounding area, as we had planned, and I caught up on my sleep today. My colleagues and I had a great walk through the super-charged and modern shopping area of Chengdu and then a dinner that involved about 70 bowls of quite tasty treats (I didn’t go for the chicken feet, I’m afraid, but I did eat everything else). The Sichuan cuisine is very spicy (sometimes painfully so) and truly delicious.
A Visit with my Colleagues to Adam Smith’s Statue on the
Campus of the South Western University of Finance and Economics
in Chengdu, Sichuan Province, China
Well, after meetings, a lecture/seminar on “Locke’s Theory of Property and Modern Political Economy” (with discussion of some concrete issues, including property in fisheries and the very complex land issues in China), a lunch and a dinner of Sichuan food that left my lips numb, I went with my colleagues and hosts to an after-dinner performance of Chinese violin playing, comic opera, dancing, and the famous Chengdu Bian Lian, or opera face change, which is simply amazing. I wish I could access Wikipedia’s entry on the topic, but Wikipedia is, ahem, a bit hard to access in China. But this YouTube video gives some idea of the artistry:
I’m off for some more meetings with university people and some visits to the countryside tomorrow.
P.S. You know that free-market capitalism has arrived when the Chengdu Metro Market (a kind of giant Sam’s Warehouse or Costco) has shelves upon shelves of … well, almost everything, including Belgian beer:
I landed in Chengdu this evening after a flight from Beijing. I’ll spend a good part of tomorrow at the university in meetings and giving a lecture on “John Locke and the Development of Political Economy.” I had a very authentic Sichuan dinner and my lips are still numb from the spiciness. It was delicious!
(I just got the awful news from Pakistan about the murder of Benazir Bhutto.)
I made a presentation today on the “Historical Origins of European and American Civil Society” to a conference at the university on civil society today. The discussion was tremendously stimulating and taught me a great deal about the development of civil society in China.
Visit to the LiBang Village and the Beijing Fuping (Equal Prosperity) Vocational School
LiBang Village for Migrant Workers*
Beijing Fuping Vocational School Students from Rural Western China
(*A complex issue in China, as the household registration system — a holdover from the fully collectivist period — restricts the right to migrate internally. LiBang allows people from rural areas to seek higher paying jobs in industrial regions and to enjoy residential rights while working; it is a part of the generally more liberal attitude of Fenghua to accept migration from other parts of China.)
I’m having difficulty uploading photos, but I may try later. I’ve had some very good meetings, including at the Li Bang Community in Fenghua (a residential area for immigrant workers, which allows them to travel from rural areas to work in better paid industrial jobs), at the Beijing Fuping (“Equal Prosperity”) Vocational School, and lectures and seminars at the University of Ningbo Law School and the University of Peking History Department. I also visited with a number of people in Hangzhou (former capital city of the Southern Sung Dynasty) and saw the famous West Lake, which is justly considered one of the most beautiful lakes in the world. (Beijing is also quite a sight, or it would be, if you could see much of it through the astonishing air pollution.)
What a difference a decade can make! It’s been ten years since I was last in Beijing and — like most of the rest of China — it has changed enormously. I’m convinced that, with time and a number of pressing reforms, China can become one of the most free, progressive, and wealthy societies on the planet. It’s a very exciting place.
I’ve learned one way to distinguish big cities in China from smaller towns. The big cities have canned coffee available in vending machines, but in the smaller towns coffee is very hard to find, indeed. I’m glad I got a stash of cans of Chinese coffee (“Mr Brown’s Coffee,” “36 Francs Heavy Latte,” and “Bernachon,” which features the slogan “I get used to roam by myself, and freely enjoy another world with my favorite coffee….”) in Ningbo. (I did find some at a supermarket in Xi Kou, but finding the supermarket was not easy.)
(The other delicious canned coffee features “Mr. Bond,” an Edwardian European gentleman with an upturned mustache and a pipe, accompanied by the slogan, “”I’m young..I’m coffee.”)
I also managed to get up very early to take my shower and shave, as the water for the city will be shut off today at 6 am to install some new equipment. (I suppose that has to happen occasionally, and 6 am on Sunday morning is probably the best time to do it.)
I’m at home long enough to get reacquainted with my girls (felines, both), do laundry, take care of lots of business, and then hit the road for Denver and then China, for a very full schedule. In the meantime, over a year of work will be unveiled on Wednesday, December 12. Watch Cato.org and this space!
(The conference on legal history and jurisprudence was great. A really nice break from all my other work.)
I got in last night and went straight to a conference on Hayek’s thought and the common law in Alexandria, Virginia. After a 2 hour taxi ride through the awful traffic, I got there as the dinner was starting. Today’s been a very enlightening discussion of various works in jurisprudence and legal history. Tomorrow will be more of the same, based on discussion of a number of classic works in legal theory by Jerome Frank, Karl Llewellyn, Felix Cohen, and Lon Fuller. (In between sessions, I’ve been on the phone with colleagues who are working on some very exciting new programs that we’ll unveil next week.)
The conference hall at the Collegio Carlo Alberto - Moncalieri (Torino)
(I addressed four topics in my presentation: 1) Leoni’s formative influence on the early developments of law and economics and public choice economics; 2) Leoni’s anticipation of some later developments in those fields; 3) Leoni’s on-going influence in current research topics; 4) areas of institutional development (and design) where Leoni’s insights and thinking are sorely missed. Here is a comment I co-authored on Leoni’s thought some years ago.)
After some really enjoyable meetings and lectures in Milwaukee, I made the long trip to Moscow. After a long trip through the terrible Moscow traffic, I got to my hotel with 30 minutes to shave, shower, and clean up before going out to dinner at Flat 44 (a very nice and cozy cafe, bar, and restaurant where a lot of the classical liberal intellectuals meet) with graduates of the Cato.ru 2007 Summer School. I’m rushing to finish my Powerpoint presentation for a group this evening. Then I’m off tomorrow to Milan.
This corresponds to my own memories of visiting Communist Poland:
I remember a bleak time in Poland when the economy was so maddeningly out of touch with the needs of its people that anyone lucky enough to own a car would remove their windshield wipers at night and take them inside. In their command economy — oblivious to the laws of supply and demand — some official forgot to order wipers and consequently, they weren’t for sale anywhere. Inspired by a hungry black market, thieves would work late into the night snapping them up.
Many Americans remember Poland as bleak and rundown — full of rusting factories and smoggy cities. I remember a time when the air was so polluted it turned my hanky black the day I entered the country. Glum locals used to stand patiently in line at a soda stand to sip a drink from the same tin cup tethered to the stand by a rusty chain.
I can’t vouch for the comments on the visit to a milk bar, but I can say that Poland has certainly changed!
Years ago I gave a lecture at the University of Lublin and invited the participants out to dinner. Over 40 people came, so we went to “the nicest restaurant in town,” at the state-owned Urania hotel, mainly famous among foreigners as a place where the state pimped Polish girls to visitors who could pay in hard currency. Dinner came to a little over a dollar a person (not counting the five dollars I gave the terrible “rock band” to stop playing and go home, so we could talk). Each participant was introduced and stood up and bowed. Many of the introductions were like this: “Professor So-and-So teaches linguistics/history/philosophy/etc. and was for 17 years in prison, first under the Nazis, then three times under the Communists.” When I asked the chair of the faculty if she came to the restaurant often, she blanched and informed me that, no, it was really very, very expensive and people like her would only go for special events, like weddings and fiftieth wedding anniversaries.
(I can’t help adding that on my first visit to Prague, I was offered a great treat — a glass of Coca Cola! I was not that enthusiastic, but I told my host, “Sure, that would be nice.” In the pub they dunked a dirty glass into much dirtier water, so it came out nasty and greasy, and then poured in the coke, which had little spots of oil floating on the surface. I somehow managed not to drink it. That was quite mild compared to Communist Albania, where I managed to throw up after almost every meal, an experience I had in some other socialist countries, as well, where the food was sometimes actually slippery from the bacteria.)
Tanzania, Hamburg, "Freedom Properly Understood," and Back
I am in Hamburg and quite exhausted, partially because I seem to have gotten something rather nasty in Tanzania. (The hospital here was noncommital, but they said to keep taking the medications and I should be ok.)
My talk to the Liberal International meeting here was, I think, well received and I enjoyed the comments from the panelists. Here is the full version, which I finished while suffering from the heat and humidity in Tanzania (I only got them to fix the AC in the room on the third night) after sessions of the African Resource Bank: “Freedom Properly Understood.”
Our Africa trip was very inspiring in a number of ways. It was our first meeting of Cato’s Africa team and I am optimistic that we will be able to have a positive impact in the continent. I have known and worked with all but one of them before, and I had a chance to meet for the first time one of our new colleagues from Ghana. All are serious, impressive, and very sharp. In addition to our two Ghanian colleagues, members of Cato’s Portuguese, French, and Arabic teams were also there, as well as my colleagues David Archer and Nicole Kurokawa, and all are pulling together to create a sound continent-wide libertarian program. (We hope to include a Swahili element, as well.)
After the African Resource Bank meeting (where I spoke on “Globalization and Cultural Identity”), we had a team meeting for Cato’s Center for Promotion of Human Rights in Zanzibar . At that meeting, we went over strategies and had a very valuable presentation and training session on media outreach and publication strategies and techniques led by our Arabic team members, Fadi Haddadin and Ghaleb Hijazi. It was followed by a walk through Stone Town and dinner at the waterside restaurant dedicated to the late singer Freddy Mercury, who, it turns out, was born in Zanzibar.
The trip to Zanzibar was on the fast boat, which was reasonably tolerable. The two television screens in the economy class section showed a really dreadful movie about “Lake Placid,” Maine, in which a GIANT crocodile was overturning boats and eating people, including biting them very graphically in half, with body parts all over, etc., etc. Not really a great movie for a boat ride, but it was one of the few stable objects on which I could focus to avoid getting sick, so I saw most of it.
Well, the same movie was playing on the way back. I had figured it was a broadcast of some sort, but no, it was what the crew had chosen as appropriate entertainment for the trip. The trip back was truly awful and almost everyone was terribly sick. Only David, our cheerful English participant, seemed unfazed by it. The rest of us were miserable — really miserable. (The full-screen pictures of human entrails being eaten by crocodiles did not help.) One of our team members (not to be named) staggered out and sprawled on the deck in misery, only to find himself propped on the coffin (occupied) that was being sent back to the mainland for burial. That evidently didn’t help his spirits. It seems that all (except, again, for David) were sick for a long time after.
We have big plans for publishing, broadcasting, webcasting, and teaching about liberty in Africa. 2008 should be a big year for African libertarianism.
I’ve had a series of useful meetings in Brussels with our European friends and partners. The Capitalist Ball (sponsored by the Centre for the New Europe) was fun and a good chance to see old friends (some I hadn’t seen in 10 years) from Sweden, Belgium, France, Germany, and other countries. The Adriatic Institute’s programs were quite interesting and led to some useful meetings with people from the European parliament.
The Capitalist Ball last night was picketed by a group of wacky communists who announced that the ball contained “Europe’s richest people.” The claim was bizarre, as the room was full of advocates of free market capitalism, but as far as I could tell, no or almost no “capitalists” at all. Everyone I met was a think tank staffer, member of a liberal youth or student group, member of parliament, staff member for a member of parliament, a professor, or a journalist. I doubt that many people in the room were “poor” (it did cost fifty euros to attend, after all), but I also didn’t meet any “rich” people, either (except in the sense that everyone in an advanced market economy is rich in comparison to people in non-market economies).
I’m off to the US shortly. No more fantastic Belgian beer for while……(except for the special bottles of Trappisten beer I was given by friends)…..
Photos from the Opening Dinner at the Cato.ru Summer School*
Cato.ru Editor Anya Krasinskaya
The Proprietor of this Website
And here are some of the most important participants, who represent the future of freedom:
*More available here. (Anyone interested in helping to ensure that we can run a similar summer school next year, please drop me a note! You could sponsor a student for a modest sum.)
Moreover, it’s hard to imagine that it has been so long since I was last in Budapest, which is one of the most beautiful and livable cities in the world. (The food is also great, especially when eaten surrounded by the sounds of one of the most wonderful languages spoken anywhere.)
I traveled today from Alushta to Budapest and have had a wonderful reunion with old friends I had not seen since 1995. Ivan is now advisor to the mayor of Budapest; Katalin is a practicing doctor; and their son, whom I last saw when he was very little, is now a very intelligent and promising young man. And….Budapest, a city of which I am very fond, has become much, much, much wealthier than I remember it.
Just as I was getting used to the special sounds of Russian and Ukrainian, I heard again the beautiful tones of Hungarian. (I tried to learn it years ago and made a little progress; I found it not as hard as Russian, but quite challenging, nonetheless.)
*Regarding the title, I am staying on the Buda side of Budapest, with — thanks to the great deals on Priceline — a grand view of the parliament from the front and of the citadel from the back.
Johan Norberg did, as always, a wonderful job (with translation) in his presentation to the Cato.ru Russian-language summer school on “Global Capitalism and Personal Freedom.” He autographed the Russian edition of his book and he’ll give another talk at the banquet tonight, when we will present diplomas to the participants, give prizes to the writers of the best essays in the Cato.ru 2007 essay contest, and then — a surprise to the participants — fireworks over the Black Sea. We’ve had several faculty meetings to plan how to build on this successful seminar and adapt and improve it for 2008.
I ain’t much of a photographer, but here are a few pics I snapped from the Cato.ru seminar in Crimea:
Piotr Kaznacheev explaining the case for drug legalization
A Student Posing a Question to Kaznacheev
Kakha Bendukidze Exploring the Frontiers of Libertarianism
Students Defending Their Views During Kakha’s Lively Presentation*
*Kakha is, as I learned, a wonderful teacher. He challenged, cajoled, joked, and got the students to think about why they believe one thing or another. It was remarkable to witness.
I’ve been working on my talks today for the Cato.ru Summer School that opens tomorrow at the More Resort in Alushta, Crimea. The people at the resort are very, very nice to this generally mute attendee (none of the resort staff have more than a few words of non-Russian, and my spoken Russian is limited to trying to be polite, asking for coffee, etc.), the Black Sea swimming is pleasant, and the food is great. (The prices are generally low, except…..when I tried to buy some clothes to replace the lost luggage I’m hoping someday to get, I found that Crimean-resort-clothing-prices seem more suitable for oligarchs than for normal tourists, with a polo shirt going for over $200, so I settled for some shorts, t-shirts, and sandals I bought along the beach, as well as a light shirt that features an “A” in a circle and the English words, “Punk,” “Disorderli,” and “Anarchy” written vertically on the front; the suit case with my suits and formal shirts happily did arrive.)
I’m no photographer, but I snapped some shots of the view of the Black Sea Promenade from the little restaurant where I had lunch with some of our team yesterday. The coastline is more beautiful than that little shot suggests.
In addition to Russians, we will have good attendance from Ukraine, Belarus, Georgia, and Azerbaijan, and some attendees from other areas of the post-Soviet space.
I gave my last talk at the Summer University on “Humane Dimensions of Globalization,” which dealt with issues of cultural identity, personal identity, and war and peace. I’m going to crash for a few hours before getting up insanely early to go with my friend Nouh El Harmouzi to the airport to fly to Ukraine.
I’m in Provence for meetings, consultations, networking, and the Summer University of the New Economics, before which I will make a presentation on “The Humane Dimensions of Globalization,” which will deal with cultural identity, personal identity, and peace.
I remember reading about Albania’s rural tradition of women who are accepted socially as men years ago. Women — often in families lacking a patriarch — would take the status of men and would acquire all of the privileges men enjoyed in a rather patriarchal society. The Washington Post had an interesting article on the topic today: “The Sacrifices of Albania’s ‘Sworn Virgins’.”
It’s quite a story. If you’re interested in the folklore of a very interesting and unusual country, I recommend reading two very colorful (if not always scholarly or entirely reliable) books by two rather daring ladies who visited the country early in the 20th century: Edith Durham’s High Albania and Rose Wilder Lane’s The Peaks of Shala. (The latter has been long out of print; I own rather old editions of both and enjoyed them immensely after returning from Albania.)
I’ve not been back to Albania, which I would like to revisit soon. (I flew to Tirana from Budapest as the Albanian Communist state was collapsing and arranged for translation into Albanian and publication of Paul Heyne’s textbook The Economic Way of Thinking and other works. As preparation, I managed to learn a fair amount of conversational Albanian, or “Eagle,” as the language is known; the old communist-era textbook and tapes I used had exchanges such as “Question: Ketu eshte kafeneja? [Is the cafe here?] Answer: Jo, kjo eshte nevojtorja. [No, this is the public lavatory.]” Another bit, which has also stayed with me — and which turned out to be quite useful when I was there, was “Sillmeni mish